{"id":34835,"date":"2021-12-29T07:06:26","date_gmt":"2021-12-29T06:06:26","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/a-desk.org\/?p=34835"},"modified":"2023-07-09T14:33:38","modified_gmt":"2023-07-09T12:33:38","slug":"rebranding-moda-y-activismo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/a-desk.org\/ca\/magazine\/rebranding-moda-y-activismo\/","title":{"rendered":"Rebranding: Moda i Activisme"},"content":{"rendered":"

Un pla seq\u00fc\u00e8ncia segueix l’artista Silvia Calderoni<\/a>\u00a0 dins un apartament mentre practica ioga vestida amb un conjunt de puntes. Una experi\u00e8ncia absurdament est\u00e8tica que inclou un mon\u00f2leg on Paul B. Preciado<\/a> analitza els efectes del binarisme des d’una televisi\u00f3: estem davant d’una obra audiovisual transgressora (pagada per Gucci i signada per Gus Van Sant) o es tracta de l’anunci m\u00e9s llarg de la hist\u00f2ria?<\/p>\n

Encara que la capacitat revolucion\u00e0ria de la moda \u00e9s inq\u00fcestionable i personalitats com Franca Sozzani hi invertissin part de la seva carrera, la forma en qu\u00e8 aquesta ind\u00fastria s’apodera de discursos lligats a l’activisme \u00e9s plena de contradiccions. La normalitzaci\u00f3 de cossos normals<\/a> suposa, per exemple, la mera esmena de la viol\u00e8ncia perpetuada pels seus propis c\u00e0nons. Resulta igualment absurd l’\u00fas de la paraula \u201csostenible\u201d en formats de negoci que han passat de fer dues col\u00b7leccions a llan\u00e7ar entre quatre i deu a l’any (la producci\u00f3 de roba es va duplicar entre el 2000 i el 2014<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Aquest mes hem proposat quatre visions heterog\u00e8nies per examinar la tend\u00e8ncia cap a l’activisme que exhibeix el m\u00f3n de la moda: Jes\u00fas Nebreda<\/a> analitza qu\u00e8 passa quan l’anti-outfit m\u00e9s radical de Balenciaga es cola a la gala Met; Elena Gonz\u00e1lez<\/a> examina la profunditat amb qu\u00e8 el feminisme ha marcat l’\u00faltima etapa de Dior; la dissenyadora Raquel Buj<\/a> va compartir les seves l\u00ednies de treball i formes de producci\u00f3 en una entrevista en qu\u00e8 parlem sobre biofabricaci\u00f3, tecnologia i artesania; i per tancar aquesta l\u00ednia tem\u00e0tica, Sorcha Brennan<\/a> desenvolupa un acostament a la performativitat de l’est\u00e8tica social dins el luxe.<\/p>\n

Tot i que el paper hist\u00f2ric de la moda en l’alliberament de la dona i en la visibilitzaci\u00f3 de la comunitat LGTBQ+ hagi estat de vegades valenta, les maneres d’afrontar alguns temes accentuen la superficialitat del mercat. El capital d’una marca creix juntament amb els valors \u00e8tics que projecta, per la qual cosa aquest rebranding<\/em> queda relegat a una simple eina que, la majoria de les vegades, no ataca ni critica el sistema, sin\u00f3 que el perfecciona i legitima.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Meme realitzat a partir d’una imatge d’Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez amb una frase de Realismo capitalista de Mark Fisher, 2021\u00a0<\/span>\u00a0<\/span><\/p><\/div>\n

I despr\u00e9s hi ha Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, la genialitat de la qual permet utilitzar els codis de qualsevol plataforma<\/a> per amplificar el seu discurs i arribar a audi\u00e8ncies que, d’una altra manera, no coneixerien el seu comprom\u00eds. Encara que no sabem exactament el que hauria pensat Mark Fisher del seu estilisme a la gala Met, alguns mems que van sorgir a partir del Tax the rich<\/em> defineixen a la perfecci\u00f3 la manera com aquest mercat s’ha apropiat del discurs activista. Mems que desprenen m\u00e9s creativitat que la sencera col\u00b7lecci\u00f3 signada per Jeff Koons per a Louis Vuitton. I per cert, un sistema que explota laboralment persones a tot el m\u00f3n i de vegades utilitza l’art per donar un caire m\u00e9s sofisticat a productes amb un target <\/em>molt restringit.<\/p>\n

\"\"

Jeff Koons amb una bossa de la seva col\u00b7lecci\u00f3 Masters, col\u00b7laboraci\u00f3 per a Louis Vuitton, 2017<\/p><\/div>\n

 <\/p>\n

(Foto Portada: Paul B. Preciado en un fotograma de Something that never ended<\/em>, Gus Van Sant per a Gucci, 2020.)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Un pla seq\u00fc\u00e8ncia segueix l’artista Silvia Calderoni\u00a0 dins un apartament mentre practica ioga vestida amb un conjunt de puntes. Una experi\u00e8ncia absurdament est\u00e8tica que inclou un mon\u00f2leg on Paul B….<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2694,"featured_media":34830,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[6131],"tags":[],"coauthors":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nRebranding: Moda i Activisme – A*Desk<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/a-desk.org\/ca\/magazine\/rebranding-moda-y-activismo\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ca_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Rebranding: Moda i Activisme – A*Desk\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Un pla seq\u00fc\u00e8ncia segueix l’artista Silvia Calderoni\u00a0 dins un apartament mentre practica ioga vestida amb un conjunt de puntes. 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