{"id":8100,"date":"2013-08-20T02:00:00","date_gmt":"2013-08-20T02:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/a-desk.org\/2013\/08\/20\/gucci-vs-medici-el-renaixement-de\/"},"modified":"2013-08-20T02:00:00","modified_gmt":"2013-08-20T02:00:00","slug":"gucci-vs-medici-el-renaixement-de","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/a-desk.org\/ca\/magazine\/gucci-vs-medici-el-renaixement-de\/","title":{"rendered":"Gucci vs. M\u00e9dici: el Renaixement de l&#8217;art contemporani"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><img decoding=\"async\" class=\" alignleft size-full wp-image-8054\" src=\"http:\/\/a-desk.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/08\/Gucci_Museo_exterior.jpg\" alt=\"Gucci_Museo_exterior.jpg\" align=\"left\" width=\"670\" height=\"449\" srcset=\"https:\/\/a-desk.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/08\/Gucci_Museo_exterior.jpg 670w, https:\/\/a-desk.org\/wp-content\/uploads\/2013\/08\/Gucci_Museo_exterior-595x400.jpg 595w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 670px) 100vw, 670px\" \/><br \/>\nIgual que l&#8217;art, la moda \u00e9s un mitj\u00e0 d&#8217;expressi\u00f3 molt subtil. En les \u00faltimes d\u00e8cades la moda ha ocupat, com la fotografia, un espai on havia estat m\u00e9s o menys absent, veient cr\u00e9ixer la seva influ\u00e8ncia fins a arribar finalment a <em>estatus<\/em> d&#8217;art, encara que no sigui aquesta precisament la seva fi. Si b\u00e9 no se li nega a la vestimenta hist\u00f2rica el seu valor antropol\u00f2gic i cultural, ha estat en els \u00faltims temps quan la dimensi\u00f3 art\u00edstica de la moda contempor\u00e0nia i el seu paper en el m\u00f3n medi\u00e0tic i cultural s&#8217;han fet ferms.<\/p>\n<p>La moda s&#8217;instal\u00b7la al m\u00f3n de l&#8217;art en forma de &#8216;cultura urbana contempor\u00e0nia&#8217;, actua com un vulgar imant i apropa l&#8217;art a les masses. Els museus la utilitzen per conquistar nous p\u00fablics. Qualificada en alguns casos com &#8220;salvaci\u00f3 econ\u00f2mica&#8221;, la moda s&#8217;ha tornat imprescindible en els programes dels museus que ara recorren a dissenyadors. Amb la transacci\u00f3, la marca guanya legitimitat i publicitat impagable, i el museu, grans beneficis.<\/p>\n<p>Per entendre l&#8217;exist\u00e8ncia del Museu Gucci a Flor\u00e8ncia, cal remuntar-se als 70, quan l&#8217;editora de Vogue Diana Vreeland va passar a dirigir el Costume Institute del Metropolitan de Nova York, tasca que va suposar una fita: sorgia un nou concepte basat en retrospectives o propostes noves allunyades dels tradicionals i r\u00edgids museus del vestit. Algunes d\u00e8cades despr\u00e9s, la controvertida retrospectiva d&#8217;Armani al Guggenheim de Bilbao (2001) va marcar un punt d&#8217;inflexi\u00f3. No obstant aix\u00f2, la consagraci\u00f3 de la moda en els museus correspon a Savage Beauty (2011), la retrospectiva de McQueen al Met -o la vuitena exposici\u00f3 m\u00e9s vista en la hist\u00f2ria del museu-. Entre una i altra han proliferat retrospectives (Versace, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Chlo\u00e9, Azzedine Ala\u00efa) que han aconseguit aplacar prejudicis i acreditar l&#8217;afirmaci\u00f3 de la moda com a mat\u00e8ria de museu.<\/p>\n<p>A m\u00e9s, la funci\u00f3 de mecenatge que avui en dia compleixen fundacions de cases assentades com Prada, Trussardi (ambdues vinculades a la Biennal de Ven\u00e8cia) o Cartier -a l&#8217;espera de la inauguraci\u00f3 de la Fundaci\u00f3 Vuitton a 2014-, al costat del quefer de museus amb llarga tradici\u00f3 en indument\u00e0ria com el V&#038;A de Londres, el Fashion Institute of Technology de Nova York, el Costume Institute del Metropolitan o el Palais de Tokio a Par\u00eds, que recentment ha afegit un &#8220;fashion program&#8221; al seu format, han propiciat el salt evolutiu l\u00f2gic de l&#8217;exposici\u00f3 temporal al propi museu de marca amb solera, en qu\u00e8 la moda es mira amb gran entusiasme el seu propi melic.<\/p>\n<p>El fenomen va comen\u00e7ar l\u2019any 2011 amb l&#8217;obertura del museu Balenciaga a Guetaria, seguit de Gucci (2011) i Ferragamo (2013) a Flor\u00e8ncia. Amb un empla\u00e7ament immillorable, al costat del Palazzo Vecchio i a plena Piazza della Signoria, no molt lluny del Bargiello, dels Ufizzi o el Palazzo Pitti -estendards de les joies del Renaixement-, el Museu Gucci confronta passat i present d&#8217;una ciutat poderosament influ\u00efda per la cultura.<\/p>\n<p>Gucci ha sabut convertir els seus productes en peces de culte i ara, tamb\u00e9 de museu. Una mena de boutique de peces <em>vintage<\/em> que no es poden tocar ni provar ni comprar. Aqu\u00ed la moda canvia aparador per vitrina sense que advertim massa difer\u00e8ncia. Nom\u00e9s cal preguntar-se ja si el disseny de moda \u00e9s pr\u00f2piament un art. Sense negar la dimensi\u00f3 art\u00edstica del dissenyador, s\u00f3n els mateixos dissenyadors els que afirmen que no.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Igual que l&#8217;art, la moda \u00e9s un mitj\u00e0 d&#8217;expressi\u00f3 molt subtil. En les \u00faltimes d\u00e8cades la moda ha ocupat, com la fotografia, un espai on havia estat m\u00e9s o menys&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1291,"featured_media":8054,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[6782],"tags":[],"coauthors":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v22.6 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>Gucci vs. M\u00e9dici: el Renaixement de l&#039;art contemporani &#8211; A*Desk<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/a-desk.org\/ca\/magazine\/gucci-vs-medici-el-renaixement-de\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ca_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Gucci vs. M\u00e9dici: el Renaixement de l&#039;art contemporani &#8211; A*Desk\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Igual que l&#8217;art, la moda \u00e9s un mitj\u00e0 d&#8217;expressi\u00f3 molt subtil. 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