{"id":8110,"date":"2013-08-26T02:03:00","date_gmt":"2013-08-26T02:03:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/a-desk.org\/2013\/08\/26\/cidade-da-cultura-monument-a-l\/"},"modified":"2013-08-26T02:03:00","modified_gmt":"2013-08-26T02:03:00","slug":"cidade-da-cultura-monument-a-l","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/a-desk.org\/ca\/magazine\/cidade-da-cultura-monument-a-l\/","title":{"rendered":"Cidade da Cultura: Monument a l’Elefante Blanc"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"a)
\nDonem mil voltes per pujar a la Muntanya Gai\u00e0s, a la Cidade da Cultura de Santiago de Compostel\u00b7la. Ens hem saltat la sortida apropiada (entre d\u2019altres motius, perqu\u00e8 no estava marcada) , i ara un senyal ens porta per un carrer estret per a dos cotxes, amb cases m\u00e9s aviat lletjotes i poc cuidades a banda i banda. Em pregunto si va quedar als llimbs una carretera m\u00e9s monumental degut a la paralitzaci\u00f3 de les obres, o senzillament mai no es van molestar a pensar en l’acc\u00e9s. Encaixaria perfectament amb la mentalitat del projecte: no pensar massa, i sobretot, no pensar en les necessitats reals.<\/p>\n

No \u00e9s la primera vegada que vaig a la Cidade, per\u00f2 mai deixa de sorprendre\u2019m l’estupidesa de la seva concepci\u00f3, l’enormitat dels seus membres retallats (quedaran dos edificis sense construir per falta de diners i exc\u00e9s de vergonya) i la solitud de les seves esplanades castigades pel sol, sense una mala ombra, com en una pres\u00f3 d’alta seguretat. Es veu Compostel\u00b7la a sota i lluny, m\u00e9s llunyana del que est\u00e0 en l’espai, plena de vida i de gent, com des d’un erm desolat. A la Cidade s’escolta el suau remor de les obres que intenten posar pegats a all\u00f2 que queda i ocultar el que no es pot amagar: el frac\u00e0s total de l’empresa fara\u00f2nica, afavorida pel boom de les construccions culturals sense contingut i sense sentit que va acompanyar a l’altre boom, el del totxo. El que ens ha portat on som. A un erm desolat.<\/p>\n

Hi ha una petita exposici\u00f3 dels projectes finalistes en un dels tit\u00e0nics edificis. Reconeguem que les maquetes sempre llueixen. Reconeguem tamb\u00e9 que el guanyador, el que vegeta sobre els tossals del Gaias, era el m\u00e9s gran, el m\u00e9s visible, el m\u00e9s prepotent. T\u00e9 l’extensi\u00f3 exacta del casc original de la ciutat vella de Compostel\u00b7la, gens menyspreable. Les l\u00ednies dels vells carrers marquen la separaci\u00f3 entre els nous edificis (i no cal ser un linx arquitect\u00f2nic per a apreciar que, d’haver-se constru\u00eft tots, haurien estat massa junts). Un nou centre de pelegrinatge cultural?<\/p>\n

Puc descriure els prestatges buits de la biblioteca, per\u00f2 la imatge ja la va mostrar el Follonero, no remenem la ferida. Gaireb\u00e9 em va emocionar veure que de les sis persones que utilitzaven el recurs (un grup de pelegrins joves, v\u00e9s a saber quina malvada guia tur\u00edstica supervivent a base de comissions els va enviar all\u00e0), dos dormien com angelets en uns sof\u00e0s. Almenys alg\u00fa se sent a gust aqu\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Vam anar a la Cidade per ensenyar-la a una amiga artista, Andrea Acosta. Mirava els materials, les corbes de les finestres, i no feia m\u00e9s que repetir quan vell semblava tot; podria haver estat dels vuitanta, fins i tot setanta; post-apocal\u00edptic, un paisatge digne del Planeta dels Simis (nom\u00e9s que al final trobarien els campanars de l’Obradoiro en comptes de l’Est\u00e0tua de la Llibertat) . Andrea va fer una foto de l’esquelet abandonat entre dos edificis constru\u00efts, i va dir: “haurien de deixar aix\u00f2 aix\u00ed, sense acabar, per no oblidar el que s’ha fet, perqu\u00e8 s’ho pensin millor la propera vegada.”<\/p>\n

L’arquitecte de la Cidade da Cultura, Peter Eisenman, va construir tamb\u00e9 el Monument als Jueus Assassinats d’Europa a Berl\u00edn. S\u00f3n curiosos els punts en com\u00fa. Diuen les males i les bones lleng\u00fces que la Cidade sempre va representar el mausoleu de Fraga, un memorial imponent i impositiu. El de Berl\u00edn \u00e9s un monument espacial, arquitect\u00f2nic, solcat per carrers estrets, que funciona com un espai ple de tombes an\u00f2nimes. La seva estructura \u00e9s per tant similar a la Cidade, nom\u00e9s que racional i realitzable. El seu car\u00e0cter monumental s’uneix amb la hist\u00f2ria de l’holocaust, amb l’objectiu de no oblidar el passat. Recordar per reflexionar, per no repetir, com a funci\u00f3 del monument contemporani. La Cidade avui nom\u00e9s cobra sentit com a monument a si mateixa i a tots els disbauxes arquitect\u00f2nics irresponsables de la Pen\u00ednsula (el “nunca mais” gallec mai fou m\u00e9s universal): el Gran Monument Imm\u00f2bil a l\u2019Elefant Blanc.
\n\"b)<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Donem mil voltes per pujar a la Muntanya Gai\u00e0s, a la Cidade da Cultura de Santiago de Compostel\u00b7la. Ens hem saltat la sortida apropiada (entre d\u2019altres motius, perqu\u00e8 no estava…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1255,"featured_media":8051,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[6782],"tags":[],"coauthors":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nCidade da Cultura: Monument a l'Elefante Blanc – A*Desk<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/a-desk.org\/ca\/magazine\/cidade-da-cultura-monument-a-l\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ca_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Cidade da Cultura: Monument a l'Elefante Blanc – A*Desk\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Donem mil voltes per pujar a la Muntanya Gai\u00e0s, a la Cidade da Cultura de Santiago de Compostel\u00b7la. 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