{"id":8639,"date":"2014-02-04T02:00:00","date_gmt":"2014-02-04T02:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/a-desk.org\/2014\/02\/04\/mes-moda-al-museo-isabella-blow\/"},"modified":"2014-02-04T02:00:00","modified_gmt":"2014-02-04T02:00:00","slug":"mes-moda-al-museo-isabella-blow","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/a-desk.org\/ca\/magazine\/mes-moda-al-museo-isabella-blow\/","title":{"rendered":"M\u00e9s moda al museu: “Isabella Blow. fashion galore!” a la Sommerset House"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"Isabella_Blow.jpg\"
\n“Vaig tenir els m\u00e9s peculiars llocs de treball. Vaig treballar en una pastisseria durant anys, venent pastes farcides d’albercoc. Tamb\u00e9 vaig ser netejadora. Solia dur un mocador amb nusos al cap. Un dia la meva cosina em va veure a l’oficina correus, i em va preguntar: qu\u00e8 fas? Al que vaig respondre: qu\u00e8 et sembla que faig? S\u00f3c la dona de fer feines!”.<\/p>\n

L’hi podries sentir dir a qualsevol espanyol a Londres, juntament amb el dif\u00edcil que \u00e9s que et lloguin una casa, o el molt que triguen a donar-te la national insurance number<\/em>. Per\u00f2 no, aix\u00f2 ho va dir Isabella Blow, l’exc\u00e8ntrica editora, mecenes, impulsora de dissenyadors, fashion insider<\/em>, un d’aquells escassos personatges que mouen els fils de la moda, amigu\u00edssima d’Andy Warhol i Jean Michel Basquiat, i fundadora de la galeria Modern Art. Un rar exemple, ja que el somni americ\u00e0 no encaixa del tot al Regne Unit. Un pot trobar el seu lloc, per\u00f2 dif\u00edcilment manejar una ind\u00fastria que genera milions de lliures.<\/p>\n

Perqu\u00e8 la moda \u00e9s sobretot aix\u00f2: una ind\u00fastria. Segons un estudi publicat pel Consell Brit\u00e0nic de la Moda, l’economia del pa\u00eds li deu cada any 12 bilions de lliures a la moda. Els economistes d’Oxford que van dur a terme la investigaci\u00f3 van concloure que \u00e9s la ind\u00fastria creativa que m\u00e9s llocs de treball genera, ocupant directament a m\u00e9s de 816.000 persones (el 2,8% de l’ocupaci\u00f3 del pa\u00eds). Una ind\u00fastria similar en grand\u00e0ria a l’aliment\u00e0ria, i que crea el doble de llocs de treball que la immobili\u00e0ria, i tants com les telecomunicacions, la publicitat i la ind\u00fastria automobil\u00edstica juntes. I aix\u00f2 es palpa. No nom\u00e9s en la cl\u00e0ssica extravag\u00e0ncia brit\u00e0nica dels divendres a Brick Lane. Al Regne Unit hi ha una vintena de publicacions de primera l\u00ednia sobre el tema, dues vegades a l’any se celebra la London Fashion Week \u2013que genera 20 milions de lliures de benefici-, instituts privats i prestigioses universitats ofereixen formaci\u00f3 espec\u00edfica per al sector, i el govern fa declaracions peri\u00f2diques de suport a la moda. Per\u00f2, veure\u2019s, es veu als museus.<\/p>\n

A dia d’ avui, a m\u00e9s de l’exposici\u00f3 Isabella Blow: fashion galore!<\/a><\/em> de la Sommerset House, es pot visitar a la capital londinenca, entre d’altres, Club to catwalk. London fashion in the 1980’s<\/a><\/em> al Victoria and Albert Museum, que segueix l’estela de Punk: chaos to couture, i a la qual seguir\u00e0 a l’abril The glamour of italian fashion, 1945-2014<\/a><\/em>.<\/p>\n

I perqu\u00e8 tot all\u00f2 \u201cmuseuficable\u201d \u00e9s sospit\u00f3s de ser art -encara que molts surtin d’aquests centres preguntant-se, com si alg\u00fa els hagu\u00e9s estafat, “aix\u00f2 era art?” -, tal profusi\u00f3 d’exposicions fa m\u00e9s vigent que mai la q\u00fcesti\u00f3: \u00e9s la moda art?<\/p>\n

“Estic en contra de la moda als museus”, diu Karl Lagerfeld, negant-li la possibilitat, encara que fotografies fetes per ell s’exposessin a la Saatchi Gallery l’any passat, sota el t\u00edtol de The little black jacket<\/em>. El director creatiu de Chanel no \u00e9s l’\u00fanic dins de la ind\u00fastria que pensa aix\u00ed. Del seu costat estan Marc Jacobs, Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Gar\u00e7ons) o, en el seu moment, Coco Chanel. Una cosa similar creu Pierre Berg\u00e9, parella de qui va ser Yves Saint Laurent i cofundador de la marca ep\u00f2nima: “Saint Laurent va ser un artista. Balenciaga va ser un artista. Schiaparelli tamb\u00e9. I Chanel. Per\u00f2 la moda no \u00e9s art”.<\/p>\n

Hi ha qui opina, per\u00f2, que est\u00e0 immersa en un proc\u00e9s d’acceptaci\u00f3 similar al d’altres disciplines. “Tradicionalment s’han acceptat certes formes de producci\u00f3 cultural com a art: la pintura dels grans mestres, la m\u00fasica cl\u00e0ssica. Despr\u00e9s, altres disciplines, com el cinema, la fotografia o el jazz han anat adoptant l’etiqueta gradualment”, comenta Valerie Steel, historiadora i directora del Fashion Institute of Technology. “La moda est\u00e0 en aquesta transici\u00f3”.<\/p>\n

El fet que institucions de renom i galeries comercials programin moda regularment no far\u00e0 m\u00e9s que amplificar la q\u00fcesti\u00f3, el dubte. Tamb\u00e9 que Prada contracti artistes gr\u00e0fics per estampar els seus abrics, com ho fes Schiaparelli amb Dal\u00ed i els seus llagostes o sabates-barret, o que Marc Jacobs col\u00b7labori amb Takashi Murakami per les bosses Louis Vuitton, o amb Yayoi Kusama.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

“Vaig tenir els m\u00e9s peculiars llocs de treball. Vaig treballar en una pastisseria durant anys, venent pastes farcides d’albercoc. Tamb\u00e9 vaig ser netejadora. Solia dur un mocador amb nusos al…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1286,"featured_media":8608,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_relevanssi_hide_post":"","_relevanssi_hide_content":"","_relevanssi_pin_for_all":"","_relevanssi_pin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_unpin_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_keywords":"","_relevanssi_related_include_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_exclude_ids":"","_relevanssi_related_no_append":"","_relevanssi_related_not_related":"","_relevanssi_related_posts":"","_relevanssi_noindex_reason":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[6782],"tags":[],"coauthors":[],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nM\u00e9s moda al museu: "Isabella Blow. fashion galore!" a la Sommerset House – A*Desk<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/a-desk.org\/ca\/magazine\/mes-moda-al-museo-isabella-blow\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ca_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"M\u00e9s moda al museu: "Isabella Blow. fashion galore!" a la Sommerset House – A*Desk\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"“Vaig tenir els m\u00e9s peculiars llocs de treball. 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